Wednesday, September 24, 2025

Gun & Prepping News #48

 Just some gun and prepping related links that I thought interesting or useful:  

  • "Top Selling Guns | August 2025"--Guns & Ammo.  Per the article, the Sig P365 and P320 take the top two spots, respectively, in the new semi-auto handgun category and, swapping places, are also the top two spots in the used semi-auto pistol market; the Colt Python is #1 in the new revolver category; the S&W Model 10 is #1 in used revolver category; the top spot in new and used semi-auto rifle categories both go to the Ruger 10/22; the Ruger American Rifle is the top selling new bolt-action rifle; the top used bolt-action is the Winchester Model 70; the top new lever action is the Marlin 1895 SBL while the Winchester 94 tops the used lever actions. I'll skip over the single-shot rifles and the different shotgun categories. 
  • Far out of my price range, but it is good to see continued innovations in handguns: "The Quest For The Low Bore Axis: Rideout Arsenal Dragon from the USA"--The Firearm Blog. An excerpt:

With the idea that a pistol using a fixed barrel and a retardation system based on mechanical disadvantage was the best solution, Travis ditched the rather cumbersome rollers in favor of a lever delay. This is a mechanically simple design that requires careful optimization and manufacturing to function properly; therefore, it’s quite uncommon in modern, mass-produced pistols. We can recall the rather obscure Hogue Avenger pistol and the more famous FAMAS assault rifle as examples of this approach.

A second is a second, you might say. But, in the martial and sports worlds (and even the stock markets), they worry about split second response times to incoming attacks. Response-reaction-time is defined as the time between a stimulus and a response. Through the years instructors belittled your survival chances to respond to an attack by scaring people about response times. After all,  the ambush lives and breathes inside the failure to respond. In the opposite realm, many instructors have ignored the subject. In the 1990s and 2000s the martial arts, the self defense and combatives worlds were riddled with some depressing, confusing myths on the topic of reaction time and it was treated like an ogre, almost impossible to overcome. 

Darryl presented a thought-provoking discussion on “thinking triggers” versus “shooting triggers.”  In competitive shooting, most of your thinking is accomplished prior to the action; you know in advance that you’re going to shoot.  In a defensive altercation whether you’re going to shoot depends on your last second assessment of the threat; the first shot is an irrevocable commitment.  The 12 lb., long stroke of the double action revolver’s trigger gives added time for thinking and assessing. It’s not as conducive to marksmanship as the 4 lb. short stroke of a single action.  A double action revolver is a “thinking trigger” for every shot, your “splits” may be greater but so is your ability to assess when and if to start shooting and when to stop shooting.   

This also applies to the DA/SA or DAO trigger on a semi-auto pistol. 

    I doubt I’m a better shot now, but I’d have to say that 3-4” at fifteen yards with no pressure is pretty good from this small a gun – understanding that it’s meant for extreme deep concealment. It more than “beats nothing.” 

    The Federal HydraShok Deep is quite accurate – this is a sub-7-ounce pistol, with little to hang onto. The bullet is under the 71-grain standard weight for ball, but not by much and the speed is right up there, faster than the lighter Silvertip.

    As to carry ammo, any of the ball rounds would work. Winchester has the flat-point FMJ bullet and I like that feature. As to carrying ball ammo, it’s risky in most handgun calibers because more time and attention is given to premium defense ammo. In the 32, I’m not sure that’s quite the factor – but reliability is. The previous P32 was reliable with ball and some hollowpoints, but not all. 

    It’s a decision each user will have to make.
  • "Midwest Industries Releases AK Multi Tool"--The Truth About Guns.  The article doesn't mention a price, but it is $85 dollars. But for that you get a tool that handles front sight elevation and windage adjustments, handguard lever tool, and detent tool for a muzzle device. And it looks to be fairly sturdy. 
  • "9 OTC Items To Help Fight Radiation Poisoning"--Urban Survival Site. Fortunately, one of the items that is still available over the counter are Iodine Pills (Potassium Iodide / IOSAT) which the author notes are "one of the only FDA-approved treatments for radiation exposure." The other items are foods and supplements that can either help reduce absorption of radioactive isotopes or aid in flushing them from your body. 
  • "Confessions Of A Desert Rat — Life In The Boonies On $30 A Week"--Self Reliance. The author explains that he lives in the high desert of the American Southwest. The article is a mix of anecdotes, tips, and insights from living frugally. But even though the author describes himself as a bit of a hermit, he emphasizes the importance of strong relationships with neighbors. 
  • "Run Your Generator Several Times a Year – How Long – Tips"--Modern Survival Blog. The author notes:
Generator maintenance at a minimum, involves simply running your generator from time to time. Why?
  •     To keep its internal parts lubricated with oil
  •     Charge the battery (if it has a battery)
  •     To be sure the carburetor isn’t gummed up
  •     Put it under load to verify output
  •     To make sure that the generator actually works (before you ever need it for an emergency)
Many years ago, when I still went camping, the only cooking pot I brought along was a steel wok. In that I could make nearly anything over the campfire, from hamburgers to stew to biscuits, though generally not all at the same time. It was extremely versatile and allowed me to travel lighter while still eating well. On trail drives, the cast iron Dutch oven served (and still serves) a similar purpose, allowing simple and hearty meals to be made with little need to carry a variety of cookware in the limited space of a chuck wagon. With some thought and preparation, a frying pan or skillet can serve the same purpose in the prepper's kitchen.  
 
He also includes a couple recipes: one for a dish he calls "Bachelor Chicken" and the other for "Chicken With Onions". My wife works late and I generally also work well past 5 pm, so we don't have a lot of time to prepare meals, and I often fall back on my own versions of one-pot meals: typically some type of stir fry or a pot of chicken and vegetable curry.  (Although I guess they are technically not one-pot because I also use a rice cooker to prepare rice). 

5 comments:

  1. If I may be permitted to submit some blather....
    Part The First

    "Thinking triggers vs Shooting Triggers" - I agree. My 3Gun rifle - which is actually an 12.5" AR pistol - has a 2.5 pound extremely crisp, very short reset Geiselle single-stage competition trigger (available only through Brownells) because it's really, really fast and I know exactly what the mission is on a one-way range when the timer beeps. The upper has a Holoson 510C in green because that sight supports the same mission quite well, and with a 3X magnifier it's "workable" out to the 200-250 meter targets (but slower than a 1-6X LVPO)

    That pistol loses the 5.56 upper at home and gains a 11.5" 300BLK upper, also with a 501C-GR (no magnifier) because should the front door get kicked in I know what that mission is, too. I would not, and do not, recommend that trigger for use outside a square range, it takes too much practice to get good with and requires way too much trigger discipline and mental effort, skills seemingly in short supply. FYI, for "home use" a can is just about a must, unless you have multiple sets of ear muffs staged around the house.

    The 507 Comp - I wish the 32 MOA circle was about 40-42 MOA, but that's just me. I've had it on two carry guns for a while (Glock 20 and Sig XTEN, which is being replqaced by a recently acquired M&P 2.0 in 10 now that everyone's panties are in a wad about 320s). The 32 MOA circle makes it hugely fast and the 2 MOA dot provides precison, not to mention the window is nearly as big as the ones in my living room walls. Not a small sight, though, doubt it would work well on a 365 or Hellcat.

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  2. Part The Second

    Generators - Except for the interval - I favor every 60 days rather than every 3 months - I'm in agreement. Get a cheap 1500 watt electric heater to use for loading the generator - the heater will have settings for 500, 1000, and 1500 watts so the load can be tailored to the gennie, and having a small heater may come in handy some day. Honda recommends, and I subscribe to their recommendations, to use only non-ethanol gasoline with a fuel stabilizer added and after running the gennie top off the tank to the "maximum recommended fill point" - whatever that is on your generator, check the owner's manual, some gennies (like some Hondas) have vents in the filler neck that should not be covered by fuel - to minimize the area of fuel exposed to air (if the only fuel exposed to air is in the tank neck just below the cap it's probably about 7-8 square inches, if the fuel level is just "near the top of the tank" it's probably about 1.5 square feet. Big difference in evaporation rate and oxygen exposure. If you're not going to run it for 6 months, find a way to let it run dry - and use gas that has about 10-20% more fuel preservative in it than the bottle label recommends. If you're faithful about every 60 days, don't worry about it, but never skip the preservative and kep the tank filled to the "maximum recommended fill point" to minimize evaporation (I use Pri-G, and their recommended dosage comes out to 10ml per 20 liters (20L = 5.28 gallons - I filll to 5.25 gallons with 20L NATO cans - add the preservative first and let the gas flow mix it for you). If you're really anal and OCD about it, don't put fuel in the main generator tank, use an "auxiliary" tank to run it for the 60-day test cycles and run it dry from that. That does mean some fuel line plumbing and valving on your part, though. Gas will not last as long in plastic cans, or metal cans that do not seal tightly. NATO cans do seal airtight, but are mucho $$ and the only spouts that fit ain't cheap either. And, the flexible "accordion" portion of the spout will last about 1.5 years in regular use (I remove the entire rubber portion and replace it with 1" ID plastic tubing - a 16" length allows reaching every filler cap I've encountered, no matter what vehicle - and Lowes/Home Depot/Menards/ACE Hrdwre all seem to have some sort of adapter - the 1" end has threads, the other end is a 3/4" diameter ribbed nipple for flexible tubing, exactly the right size for unleaded filler neck holes. Safety wire (see AlGore's Intertubes for how to put safety wire on a tubing connection) keeps everything tight and non-leakable, and if you tweak the spout vent just a tiny bit to allow more air in when pouring, you can empty 20 liters in 45-50 seconds (make sure you have at least 20L of space in the tank, though, it won't auto-shutoff like a gas station nozzle.....) For what it's worth, when I started using Pri-G I ran a test - 20L of non-ethanol 87 octane gas with 10ml of Pri-G in a NATO can in a non-temperature controlled shed undisturbed for 30 months. Used it in the riding mower, the pushmower and the Honda 2000, all ran without any problem. I do record the fill date (blue painter's tape and a Sharpie) on all my "emergency storage" gas and start recycling it when it hits 18 months, but I've proved to my satisfaction it can go longer i conditions dictate, but don't trust me or my methods, do your own.

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  3. PART THE THIRD

    I use nothing but Amsoil in everything and change intervals are date-driven, not mileage-driven, but for those vehicles with mileage gauges, the change intevals are considerably shorter than anyone recommends for even "real crap oil." Oil, (and high wuality filters) no matter what it costs, and Amsoil is expensive, is light-years cheaper than engine rebuilds. My Honda walk-behind mower is 39 years old and is just now starting to show a little smoke at cold startup (and in Florida we mow weekly except for January).

    FYI, that "extended fuel tank" for the little Honda generators has been detailed in the RV web sites and blogs for many years, it's worthwhile to cruise the RV sites and blogs now and then because the hard core RVers have all sort of tips, tricks and tweaks useful for preppers. Living out of 200-250 square feet on wheels will do that.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you for all three of your comments and the information. I also use a .300 BLK for my home defense AR pistol to get the most out of using a short barrel. I'm using a Holosun HS515CM-GR for the optic. Probably overkill, but I had originally bought the sight for a rifle, but decided to put a scope on the rifle and moved the Holosun to the pistol. I also have a small Crimson Trace weapon light attached. After reading your comments, I realized I should really should be testing my generator more often. But that is what is good about the comments--learning from other people. I will have to try Amsoil in my lawn mower and other small engines. I take my vehicle to an oil and lube place, but I'm pretty sure they are just using a high mileage motor oil in it and not a synthetic.

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  4. It was three comments because it kept telling me "comment is too long" so I had to break it up.

    RE: Amsoil - years ago I ran into an Amsoil engineer at a trade show, he said the best procedure is when you get a new car (or anything new that needs oil or comes with oil in it) is change the oil and filter immediately, as in "on the way home from the dealer" and use a very high grade of petroleum oil and a known high quality filter. Next O & F change comes at 500 miles, then every 2500 until 8K, then switch to Amsoil. He said Amsoil is so slippery it prolongs break-in, so use a good petroleum oil to get Parts to "wear in" to each other before you start on Amsoil. I had already started the mower and my generators on Amsoil right out of the box, but I've followed his recommendation with cars and motorcycles. Japanese motorcyles use engine oil for trans lube, and everyone I've known who switched to Amsoil makes the same comment - after about 1K miles it shifts much smoother. FYI, Amsoil makes a special motorcycle oil WITHOUT all the friction reducers, because those bikes run wet clutches - the clutch runs in engine oil as does the transmission. "Regular automotive" Amsoil has all the friction reducers in it.

    Pro Tip - find an Amsoil distributor and deal directly with him or her; you can pay $20/year and get "dealer pricing" on cases which is cheaper than retail. I've been dealing with the same guy for 30 years (he's in FL), order 3-4 cases from him every couple of years. He will "split cases" - send a half case of ATF with a half case of hypoid, etc. When I lived near him I could get single bottles of whatever I wanted, but he "drop ships" whole (and split) cases from an Amsoil warehouse which cuts his cost so my cost is cheaper, too. Amsoil also makes hypoid lube for differentials, lubes for manual transmissions, ATF for automobiles, etc.They'll send you a catalog for the asking. None of it is cheap, but I've had real good luck with it.

    I suspect using a very high grade petroleum oil - IF O & F get changed FREQUENTLY - would give nearly as good results. Before I started using Amsoil I never went beyond "4K or 6 months, whichever comes first" on changes and always used SE grade petroleum oil and never had a problem (I do "every 6 months regardless of mileage or operating hours" now, but some years ago one of the generators got 18-20 hours/day usage for 6 days after a hurricane; Honda recommends oil changes every 24 operating hours, I did it every other day - about 35-40 hours - and that generator is now 26 years old with over 1K hours on it, runs great and doesn't use oil. Although - you will see a very, very little bit of oil consumption with Amsoil because it is so slippery a tiny bit gets past seals, especially the rubber valve guide seals Honda seems to like so much (I replaced I don't know how many on 1970s-1980s Civics because the engines started using oil). I do see a difference with Amsoil, and the improvement in shifting smoothness on the bikes is very noticeable when they get switched over. People do balk at the price, though, especially if they're buying it retail by the quart. The auto local repair outfit I use now (getting too old to do major work, even on my own stuff) buys it by the 55 gallon drum which is much cheaper per quart than a 12-bottle case, but they get 5-30 for engines and I prefer 10-40. I do use them for annual ATF and hypoid changes, though (they have a lift, I don't). FYI, put a magnet on the bottom of the oil pan next to the drain plug (BMWs for years and years, and now some Hondas, come with magnetic drain plugs). Just remember to pull the magnet when you remove the drain plug and put it back after.

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Franklin The Turtle Memes

 If you need a laugh, be sure to check out John Wilder's collection of Franklin the Turtle memes .