Ayoob discusses why knives are more dangerous than you probably realize.
VIDEO: "Why Knives Are More Dangerous Than People Think"
Massad Ayoob - Facts and Firearms (7 min.)
Exploring practical methods for preparing for the end times, including analysis of end time scripture and prophecy, current events, prepping and self-defense.
Ayoob discusses why knives are more dangerous than you probably realize.
VIDEO: "Why Knives Are More Dangerous Than People Think"
Massad Ayoob - Facts and Firearms (7 min.)
Big Country Expat (BCE) apparently liked my recent post about bayonets for self defense (and a big thanks to him for the link). In his post--"AWOL Again, Shotguns and Bayonets, and a Crisis of the Spirit"--he delves into mounting bayonets on shotguns. As far as I know, Mossberg is the only company offering shotguns with bayonet mounts: the 590 Retrograde and the 590A1 Retrograde. However, BCE shows off a product from NcStar that provides a bayonet mount for other shotguns. Although the product description says it is for the Mossberg 500, BCE notes that it works with other shotguns and includes photographs of it on a tactical semi-auto shotgun with a Marine Corps bayonet.
I was especially interested in his photographs because I saw a video recently where the host was not able to get some of the bayonets with thicker handles like the M9 and Marine Corps model to fit on the bayonet mount on his Mossberg 590--apparently it was just a bit too tight--and was going to use the M7 because it had a thinner handle.
BCE also discusses the shotgun a bit--a semi-auto model that is inexpensive ($500 at Palmetto State Armory currently) that has done well in durability tests.
Go to his article and check it out.
As the video explains, it comes down to the metallurgy--specifically that the Japanese were treated to a very high hardness compared to the European swords which makes the Japanese blades more brittle. (This is why stainless steel makes a poor sword blade). Thus, on a blade on blade strike (or strike against any hard object) the Japanese sword would fracture and perhaps break whereas the European sword would not. The fighter using the longsword also has more leverage than the fighter using the katana if the swords get into a bind. And once in a bind, the longswordsman has more options than the samurai using a katana. And more.
VIDEO: "Why KATANAS Would LOSE to Medieval Longswords (The Physics They Don't Tell You)"
The Cutting Edge (9 min.)
When I was looking for videos on bayonet training I came across the three videos below on hand-to-hand combat and knife & club fighting:
VIDEO: "U.S. NAVY WWII ERA TRAINING FILM HAND TO HAND COMBAT PART 1 & PART 2" -- PeriscopeFilm (31 min.)
VIDEO: "US Navy Training Film 'Hand to Hand Combat' (Part 3/3) 1942"
Baltimore Academy of Defence (16 min.)
VIDEO: " “CLUB AND KNIFE FIGHTING” WWII U.S. MARINE CORPS BASIC TRAINING HAND-TO-HAND FIGHTING FILM" -- PeriscopeFilm (22 min.)
In 2020, as we witnessed widespread BLM riots (the only type of gatherings where COVID could not spread according to the boffins and politicians), the author of the New Rifleman blog wrote a piece asserting that "Your Rifle Needs a Bayonet." He argued (bold in original):
Your primary home defense rifle needs to be able to take a bayonet, and you need to have a bayonet ready to mount to it. You scoff, of course. You think, “I’ll just shoot them. The military hasn’t used bayonets in years”. But I ask you to remember what you’ve seen on the nightly news for the last few weeks and think about it. What are you going to do when you find yourself in the middle of a violent mob that will rush you and kick your head into the pavement if they decide they don’t like you? The military may have abandoned the bayonet, but I’m not in the military. Most of the time I’m at home with my family. I have to think about what benefits me and my situation. I have seen enough videos by now to convince me that a sharp, pointy blade on the end of my rifle is very good, for two reasons.
The first reason he gives is that "it serves as a psychological motivation for people to keep away from you." He raises a point that I've seen from several sources which is that because most people have experience with being cut but not with being shot, most people will have a greater fear of being stabbed or cut than being shot.
... If a mob rushes upon you to do violence, a gun pointed at them may not deter them much if they don’t think you will use it (shooting it probably will), but if there’s a bayonet on the end of it, they will avoid it. If they rush you, you don’t have to take much action; they will be the ones injuring themselves. No one hates their own body, but cherishes it and cares for it. Nobody will willingly impale or cut themselves. A bayonet is like barbed or razor wire for your person, clearly stating “STAY BACK”. A group of friends all together with bayonets pointed outwards would be even better. Your rifle needs a bayonet. Your friends need bayonets too.
The second reason he gives is as a backup to bullets--particularly, running out of bullets or if the distances are so short you can't employ your rifle.
Leroy Thompson, writing at SWAT Magazine, similarly states in his article, "Bayonets for Bad Times": "If you have a rifle with a bayonet and run out of ammunition, you have a pike, which is still a formidable weapon until you get more ammunition." And, he continues:
A weapon mounting a bayonet is an excellent deterrent as well. Given any breakdown in society, your likelihood of encountering undesirables will increase. You will want to keep those undesirables at a distance. A bayonet does a really nice job of that. Someone who comes onto your porch or approaches you in your yard uninvited during disturbing times will likely hesitate to come too close to a leveled bayonet. In many cases, the fear of getting jabbed will be more of a deterrent than the fear of getting shot.
He also notes that it may provide some defense against a weapon being snatched (assuming you know how to properly use it). For instance, he argues, "[i]f you’re searching your house at night after the power has gone out, the bayonet can be the first thing through a door, once again discouraging anyone from attempting to grab your weapon." And maybe more important than other reasons in a SHTF situation: "Another consideration in bad times might be that you don’t want to call attention to yourself. If lethal force is necessary, it might be better to administer it with a quieter weapon such as the bayonet."
The next issue is whether your rifle can take a bayonet. Going back to the New Rifleman article, the author relates that most rifles with bayonet lugs can mount a bayonet (there are apparently some rifles with lugs that are just for show--too large to fit a bayonet--with Ruger specifically mentioned). But he notes that sometimes the distance between the lug and the end of the rifle may preclude bayonets. For instance, speaking of the AR system, he observes:
If you have a 20-inch rifle or a 16-inch midlength AR-15 with a bayonet lug, it will take an AR-pattern bayonet. But many older 16-inch AR rifles have the shorter carbine gas system, and although they have a bayonet lug, a bayonet will not fit properly. The end of the muzzle is too far from the lug. The bayonet will go on the rifle, but the seating ring will sit on the thinner barrel rather than be held properly by the flash hider.
He also mentions that bayonets will work with the 14.5-inch carbine and 14.5-inch midlength with an extended flash hider. If you do have a 16-inch carbine length system, don't despair. He mentions a bayonet adapter made by Triple R Products (which appears to be available here) which is an arm or extension with a bayonet lug on it that essentially pushes the lug out to the correct distance from the muzzle, and I discovered that Midway sells a sleeve that fits over the barrel to make it thick enough to accept a bayonet. Or if you are using a free-float handguard, Geissele makes a "Super Stabby" bayonet mount in black or FDE. (At the time of this writing, the black was out of stock but the FDE model was still available).
Finally, there is the question of learning to use the bayonet if you have not been through basic training or boot camp. For a book, probably one of the best for giving you a simple but effective system is Cold Steel by John Styers (here is the Amazon link and here is a link to a PDF you can download for free). Much of the book is about using a knife, but there is a detailed section on using the bayonet. While one of the articles stated that videos on how to use a bayonet were easy to find on YouTube, I did not find that to be true. Most were just short clips showing one or two maneuvers, or were news stories discussing whether or not the military should bother with bayonet training. However, I did find a 1938 Army training film (see below) that is about 1 hour and 16 minutes long that looked pretty good based on what I've watched so far. It begins with the proper stance and goes from there. The Brent0331 YouTube channel also has a relatively short (17 min.) video on the bayonet and its use (link here).
I will point out, though, that self-defense laws still apply to bayonets. I suspect that pointing a bayonet at someone would be considered an assault or brandishing. As always, consult your local laws or legal counsel. And remember: I'm not your attorney and this article is not legal advice.
VIDEO: "1938 U.S. Army Training Film - Bayonet Training (Full)"
WWIIPublicDomain (1 hr 16 min.)
Just some gun and prepping related links that I thought interesting or useful:
While further details of what the British military is seeking with Project Grayburn are yet to be publicly released, many of the major small arms manufacturers including Heckler & Koch, Beretta Defense Technologies, SIG Sauer, and FN Herstal are already positioning themselves to make strong industrial cases alongside submitting their weapons for testing. Weapons we can expect to see submitted to Grayburn include Beretta’s NARP and SAKO’s ARG, Heckler & Koch’s HK416 and HK433, FN’s next generation SCAR and SIG Sauer's MCX Spear as well as likely entries from manufacturers such as Colt Canada, LMT, Knights Armament, Glock and CZ.
Remaining relaxed yet alert about the people, places, and nuances of the things around you is arguably the number one key to a long and relatively quiet life. You can’t become so enthralled with your phone, the basketball game, or the school play in which your offspring is currently singing loudly off-key that you forget to do a periodic quick scan of your surroundings. Live life, enjoy yourself, but remember there is every chance evil is hiding in the faces around you. By staying a tiny bit wary, you’ll be one of the first to notice if the unthinkable happens.
If so, you have given yourself more choices aside from “wild panic.”
Your options after that are to run away or what he calls "Plan B": use an improvised weapon. Some ideas:
There are many schools of thought on the subject, but to keep things simple, my own belief is that you should concentrate on two main types of weapons: impact and stabbing/cutting.
There are a myriad of possibilities in your surroundings right now. Have you thought about using a full drink bottle or even a laptop computer to club a miscreant into submission? A stout flashlight doesn’t look like a weapon, but trust me, it is quite effective at putting people in a different frame of mind. There is always the old prison standby of putting batteries, rocks, or a handful of bolts in a sock and using it like a blackjack.
Although there are many products that are intended to clean, lubricate and protect (CLP is the trademarked name for this, and it is good if you can only choose one), cleaning—meaning degreasing and removing carbon fouling, protecting and lubricating—is best served by individual products specifically designed to perform these different tasks. For removing carbon, lead and degreasing metal parts, a solvent like Hoppe’s No. 9, Gun Scrubber and many others are recommended, but then a lubricant should be applied. For lubricating moving parts, a basic, high-temperature, machine-grade lubricating oil is best. And then, for the final wipe down (level 1 cleaning), a thin, protective, lubricating-but-not-too-sticky product like Ballistol (this German-engineered product can also be used on metal, rubber and leather), Rem Oil or Barricade is suggested. Finally, if your shotgun is used or stored in particularly dusty or freezing environments, a ceramic-based or dry lube product is recommended for all metal parts. (Ballistol’s ceramic GunCer product is great.) Conversely, if your shotgun is kept in humid or salty areas, use a thicker, heavier lubricant for the final wipe down.
That name of game, particularly when it comes to semi-auto firearms is “gas control.” When we were using semi-autos with 20-inch barrels, as were standard on the original AR-15s, a simple flash hider/compensator, such as the ubiquitous “birdcage” design worked just fine. The split brake on the front of the XM16E1, despite being decried by troops in the jungle for catching on vines, actually worked very well. Gene Stoner and his team were smart guys.
However, as the barrels got shorter and the noisy end got closer to the shooter’s face other options were explored. Keep in mind, for a relatively small caliber, the .223/5.56mm has a sharp report. Though a simple AR-15 birdcage flash hider might have worked, even with the short 16 and 14.5 inch barreled M4s, when the length drops down to sub 1 foot barrels, we need something out front to push the gas away from the shooter’s face and to help reduce the flash.
The author goes on to discuss the XM177E2 Flash Hider, Spike’s Tactical Barking Spider, and Primary Weapons Systems CQB. I have a Kaw Valley Precision linear compensator on my .300 BLK pistol which I like, but they also make them for other calibers.
It’s a simple part, so I won’t belabor the point. It’s a barrel, with threads. SilencerCo doesn’t use the same polygonal rifling Glock does, so shooting cast reloads aren’t going to be a problem.
I reached out to a marketing professional who works for a large holster company. He mentioned “a confluence of events that caused the precipitous drop in sales for hybrid IWBs.”
Among these was the rise in popularity of “appendix” (front of the hip) carry. That calls for synthetics with outboard stabilization devices (“wings” or “claws”). A number of people hide large “double-stack poly pistols adorned with huge (flashlights) and (optics)” in those holsters.
No less an authority than Caleb Giddings of Taurus recently made a social media post about that very issue. Carrying his personally-owned, slightly modified Taurus TX9 duty-size pistol in a Galco Summer Comfort IWB on the strong side, he said he’d forgotten how comfortable that carry mode was – when he compared it to front-of-the-hip carry.
My source noted that a number of “influencers” had expressed extreme dislike of hybrid IWB holsters, some alleging they were “dangerous.” If the “shield” of leather behind the upper part of the gun folded over, there was some fear it’d get into the trigger guard. I didn’t test every type of gun against every permutation of hybrid IWB holster – I didn’t have access – but when I tested against what I carried, it wasn’t an issue.
Micarta is definitely one of my favorite, if not my single favorite, handle materials on a knife. The process of oiling it makes it smoother and nicer to look at without compromising its grip. And, I think that truly appreciating your stuff, you have to make it your own. Oiling the handles is an easy way to do that. Plus, if you are dude like me, you probably need a bit of moisturizer. Especially right now in the winter time.
Strike a balance between being well prepared and having a go bag that’s easy to maintain and carry. Exactly what you pack depends on you and your location (e.g., weather; cash-based economy; availability of food, water, and medicine).
It then has what appears to be a fairly complete checklist of items.
I don’t recommend tilling because it can create more weeds by bringing seeds to the surface. The soil structure in your garden is also a complex web of bacteria and fungi that serves your plants better if it stays intact. And, wrestling with a tiller can be a lot of work.
I’m all for simple and easy in my garden. That’s why I always install permanent beds and paths in my gardens.
[snip]
Establishing permanent beds often means building wooden raised beds, but there are plenty of other options. What matters most is that you’re garden beds and paths are staying in the same place for many years in a row so you’re not changing the layout over and over every season.
Also:
One of the best ways to cut down on the time it takes to prepare your spring garden for planting is to keep it weed-free. And the best way to keep those weeds at bay to make sure your garden beds and paths are mulched all year round.
The simplest method to prepare gardens for spring is to get rid of old growths and unwanted materials. Start by clearing away the remnants of winter. Remove fallen leaves, debris, and any dead plant material that may have accumulated. This not only improves the aesthetic appeal of your garden but also helps prevent the harboring of pests and diseases.
Q. When is the right time to plant—is there a cue in nature to remind us, or a soil temperature or calendar date we’re looking for?
A. At the earliest, I recommend planting two to three weeks before your average last frost date. Seed potatoes can rot if planted too early in cold water-logged soil. If your potatoes do get a heavy frost after they emerge, they will put up new shoots, but every time they die back they will produce a smaller and later harvest.
I like to wait for the soil to warm up a little at which point they emerge quickly and grow steadily without stress. Late March to early May is a good time to plant potatoes in the northern states. In the warmer areas of the South they can be planted in late fall or early winter.
Where I farm the local point of reference is to plant your potatoes when the snow is almost melted off the mountain. Whether it’s the first dandelions blooming or a particular bug emerging; if you talk to gardeners where you live they will probably have a local reference, too.
An overview of the Kukri knife: what it is, its history, the nomenclature for different parts of the weapon, and more.
VIDEO: "Kukri: Blade of the Gurkhas"
Our Own Devices (12 min.)
A video on a simple correction you can do to make a strike with a stick, axe, or sword stronger.
VIDEO: "This 1 Mistake Makes Your Strikes 95% Weaker (HOW TO FIX IT)"
Kali Center (5 min.)
A few longer reads for the weekend.
The two primary objections that the authors have for the handguns are: (i) The long reach for the trigger on the first (double-action) shot which can make the firearms difficult to use for people with smaller hands/shorter forefingers; and (ii) that because of the different trigger weights between the DA and SA shots, most people simply "cheat" during practice or competition by not shooting the weapon DA. I like DA/SA pistols for several reasons, so I'm not sharing these articles in order to bash on the designs, but just that they might not be for everyone.
This is a guest post by The Realist:
"Ozark Trails Stocking-Stuffer Knives" by The Realist:
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| Ozark Trail knife and multitool display at my local Walmart. |
Disclaimer: All products mentioned in this article were purchased by myself. I did not receive samples, evaluation models, or other compensation from any manufacturer or retailer. I have no formal relationship with any manufacturer or retailer mentioned in this article - I have only been an arms-length customer. All brand names and product names used in this review are the trade names, service marks, trademarks, or registered trademarks of their respective owners. This article reflects my unique circumstances and subjective opinions with regard to performance and other characteristics of the products being discussed. Your mileage may vary.
My local Walmart finally got around to putting out their seasonal cardboard display loaded with inexpensive stocking-stuffer knives and multitools. I have been watching for several weeks for this display to be put out, and it finally appeared in their sporting goods department.
However, these knives and multitools are no longer five dollars, they are now seven dollars ($6.97). And, they are now made in Vietnam, not China.
The display has several varieties of pocket knives, including folding and fixed blade knives. Surprisingly, all of the knives have a plain edge - no partially serrated blades. There is only the one style of 12-in-1 multitool, looking very similar to prior years' offerings, with various paint treatments to the handles.
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| Ozark Trail #6123 (top) and #6128 (bottom) pocket knives. |
I like simple locking blade pocket knives with a plain edge. My attention focused on two models in the display. First, the Ozark Trails #6123 whose packaging stated it had a "ball bearing open" for its pivot and a "rubberized handle." And second, the Ozark Trails #6128 whose blade style I liked better, and whose packaging also stated it had a "ball bearing open" for its pivot.
Years ago, I purchased a CRKT knife with a ball bearing pivot. It opened smoothly with very little effort - perfect for one hand opening. The ball bearing pivot is the reason I was interested in these two Ozark Trails knives. Their ball bearing pivot is not as good as the one in the CRKT knife, but they open easier than a pocket knife without one.
The blade is made of stainless steel, but there is no mention of the type or formulation. The blades come with a tolerable edge, but they could use some touching up. Both knives utilize a liner lock to lock the blade open while in use. Both knives come with an attached pocket clip, and it appears the pocket clip can be reversed on the #6128, but not the #6123. Both knives are 7.5 inches long when opened, and both knives have a 3.25 inch blade. The blades can be opened with one hand.
The "rubberized handle" of the #6123 knife is indeed rubberized, with it being a thin sprayed-on rubbery coating like that found on many products. It should remain rubbery for several years before the coating deteriorates and becomes sticky.
The fit and finish of both knives are good, but not perfect - much better than what I would normally expect for seven dollars. There are no burrs that could hang on clothing or cause injury while handling the knife. For both knives, when the blade is opened and locked, there is no wiggling - no side-to-side wiggle, and no looseness in the locking mechanism.
For the past few years, I have been adding some of these inexpensive pocket knives to my backup and barter inventory. These knives are good enough in quality that I would not be worried about using one myself, putting one in a 72-hour kit, or giving one to someone else. These knives do not feel cheap - their look and feel is on par with the appearance and feel of more costly mass-market knives. In contrast, the Ozark Trails multitool also for sale in this seasonal knife display looks and feels cheap.
Skallagram looks at some historical sources for their opinions on what is the ideal sword length, and provides some analysis. Like most things, though, the answer is "it depends." On factors like the type of sword, the size and strength of the person wielding it, what you are using it for (e.g., in war, for dueling, for self-defense), whether it will be used in confined spaces such as cramped streets and alleys or in more open fields and roads, and so on. And, as the second video below illustrates, it might even depend on how you travel or transport the weapon.
VIDEO: "What is the Perfect Sword Length?"
Skallagrim (8 min.)
In the second video, below, a group of people--who I presume who enjoy fantasy roleplaying games--try carrying various swords through the types of terrain that fictional characters in a TTRPG or fantasy novel might traverse in their adventures and learn some important lessons about sword length. As you might have already guessed, if you are having to push through undergrowth or move along a narrow forest path, longer weapons (great swords, long swords, rapiers, and so on) are problematic, while shorter swords will be easier to carry and move around with. You will note that the guy with the katana (the shortest sword of the bunch) had the easiest time of it. In other words, the longer swords might be fine on maintained roads and streets, or if you are riding a horse, but are probably not the best for someone slogging through a forest or jungle.
VIDEO: "What is the BEST SWORD for adventuring?"
Apperceptive_Swordsman (15 min.)
Just some gun and prepping related links that I thought interesting or useful:
As much as I like to malign the poor souls who carry small guns (it’s not the guns fault its small, its the owners fault for carrying it), the truth is that for civilian self defense in America, the size, capacity and shootability of the gun is actually not that important most of the time. Situational awareness trumps gun size any day. Good tactics trumps the size of your gun. A moderate amount of skill trumps guns size most days. Having the gun on you all the time certainly trumps a bigger gun left in the range bag.
At the end of the day, that last bit there is why small guns can be great. Having a gun on you is way more important than which gun it is. In fact, assuming a proper caliber choice, the only area where a small gun is truly at a functional disadvantage over a larger gun is in training. Please, bring a full size gun to training, either at a class or on your own. I appreciate training with what you carry and that is very important, but learning to shoot better is hampered by these small guns.
My idea of proper training with a small carry gun looks like this: I shoot the bigger gun as much as I can and at the end of every training session, I shoot a few rounds through the smaller gun. Depending on which gun it is, that might be 3 magazines worth, 3 cylinders worth or maybe even one magazine or one cylinder. I’m simply trying to take the skills I have developed with the bigger gun and transfer them to the smaller gun, while at the same time, making sure the smaller gun still works and hits where I want. I am also acclimating my hand to the smaller gun, both for the draw and recoil control. This method has worked very well for me for the past 3 decades and I have not seen a reason to change it.
As far as DA/SA trigger pulls go. This is a training issue. I’ve seen many shooters running DA/SA guns, do so with great skill and with great results. SIG’s, HK’s, CZ’s, S&W’s, and most self loading guns that are not 1911’s or Striker Fired Polyguns are in fact DA/SA guns. A shooter can and will get used to the trigger mechanism if they will actually get out to the range and fire their weapons once in awhile and practice with them.
Here’s the thing that the DA/SA guns have over most of these Striker Guns… That SA pull. I’ve fired some DA/SA guns with triggers so good it makes you want to go slap Gaston. Even with my tricked out Glock trigger, which is really dang good… It’s not as good as the SA pull on my Beretta 92. It just isn’t. Because mechanically all that trigger has to do is release the hammer. In the Glock and M&P, the trigger still has to pull that striker back just a little more before it can release. This gives it just a bit more take up… a little longer… just not quite there where a good SIG or Beretta or CZ trigger can be. I won’t say HK, because they have triggers like toggle switches, but that’s because the Germans believe in Corporal Mortification or something… I don’t know.
But back to the Off Safe Carry, the process is simple. After firing, you decock and safe the weapon, holster safely, and then flick the weapon off safe. Done. The most dangerous moment in handling the weapon is when holstering. And holstering a decocked Beretta 92FS is probably the safest gun you could ease into any holster. It doesn’t get safer. The trigger is disconnected and the firing pin transfer is rotated 90 degrees away from the firing pin. There is no way a round could go off in this condition. No matter how sloppy your reholstering is. Once safely nestled in it’s holster and everything is good… *Flick* Your weapon is now read for a rapid draw and fire without worrying about an external safety.
Now, with modern +P loads and the right rig, the .45 Colt can rival .44 Magnum energies, doing so with less energy due to its case capacity. Also, a .44 Magnum bullet is .429″ while the .45 Colt will be .451″ or .452″, so you have a larger bullet. Couple that with the history of the .45 Colt and cool points, and it makes sense to have one handy.
🚫 Myth: “Women should carry tiny guns because they’re easier to shoot.”
✅ Truth: Small guns = more recoil and harder control. Choose what fits your hands!
🚫 Myth: “Concealability” With proper technique, mid-size guns can be just as concealable. [ed: not really]
✅ Truth: Small guns = Not enough surface area for firm control, impacting accuracy.
One drawback to chest carry is that sometimes holsters don’t work cohesively with a binocular pouch/harness — a tool that’s become standard for most western hunters. At best, you have another extra set of straps to deal with, and at worst, it simply doesn’t work. There are better options out there, and one of them is the Guardian chest plate from Deadfall Designs. This simple plate allows you to attach your holster, and uses webbing straps to the rear of your bino harness, sandwiching the pistol between. The plate’s hole pattern is compatible with a variety of holsters and you can orient the pistol how you like.
For harnesses with wings or side pouches, the pistol can be a bit buried, but the Guardian works very well with compact handguns in this configuration. For others using bino pouches with no side wings, it’s easy to fit a holster for a G20 or other full-sized 10mm, and to position the grip for an efficient draw.
Several people involved in the survival industry said there seems to be fewer huge shows that were a hallmark a decade or so ago. The uneventful passing of Y2K and the end of the two-year run of National Geographic’s “Doomsday Preppers” series might have something to do with that.
Or perhaps they became like gun shows: overpriced flea markets offering few real deals.
Amid the snow-capped mountains and Mormon churches of Utah, not far from where FBI agents continue to scour for more evidence in Charlie Kirk’s assassination, a self-described armed revolutionary group openly aligned with Cuba has risen up on the streets of one of America’s most conservative states.
Armed Queers SLC says its mission is to train gay, queer and transgender people to arm themselves and to fight against capitalism. Although their purported Facebook page does not directly appear to encourage the use of firearms in their claimed mission, many of the images used depict firearms. As recently as this spring, its members traveled to Cuba for a meeting to celebrate the May Day holiday and participate in a march and events alongside revolutionaries from around the world.
In "Very Perilous: A sword wounds compendium by the surgeon Ravaton," the author of the Hema Misfits blog presents some translations and summaries of portions of "Hugues Ravaton’s Chirurgie d’armée, a seminal work in the history of European surgery and one which is also of great interest to the subject of this blog." He explains that "[a]t the time of publishing his book in 1768, Ravaton had worked as a military surgeon for 36 years, and was then Surgeon Major of the Landau hospital."
What makes his work especially interesting for people studying historical fencing is that, according to Edmond Delorme, Ravaton presents the first and most extensive work on cold steel wounds, with 217 pages and 35 observations.[1] And contrary to previous authors, Ravaton does not focus his work on curious and rare cases, but rather on relatively common ones so that surgeons may learn from his experience. He gives us a sobering look at what swords can do to the human body, a reality that we often forget in the abstract practice that is HEMA.
Of note:
... Thrusts to the cranium very rarely penetrate, even with a bayonet, but can cause severe brain trauma if done with force. The brain is fairly well protected against thrusts which can only enter by a few passages of the skull. Thrusts to the body are, by far, the deadliest, even more so to the heart. Thrusts to that organ are, according to the author, simply never brought to the attention of the surgeon. Ravaton follows the prevailing opinion of the time that thrusts are deadlier than cuts; at least to those that are brought before him.
Just some gun and prepping related links that I thought interesting or useful:
The ability to move and shoot simultaneously has several significant advantages. Moving targets are harder to hit. You can create distance, which makes you harder to hit. When moving, you’re forcing your opponent to react to you, which can put them on the back foot.
If you have to move and shoot, you want to do it quickly. You don’t want to do a slow walk while shooting. Slow targets are easy to hit. You have to find the right combination of speed and accuracy to make moving and shooting worth it.
Slim and flat, among the easiest of full-size “fighting handguns” to discreetly, accessibly carry concealed. Unarguably adequate in power for its task, all the more so today with improved ammunition. It’s been long-since proven reliable. It has a low bore axis to minimize muzzle rise and contribute to accurate rapid fire, and a straight-back, short, easy-to-control trigger pull enhances rapid-fire hit potential under the highest stress imaginable. And, thanks to the genius of John Moses Browning, it has redundant safety features.
But for the average person wanting to use a 1911, he believes they are better served with a "plain vanilla" pistol. This doesn't mean an exact copy of the GI issued 1911 or 1911A1. The example he uses is the Springfield Armory Mil-Spec. That weapon has a larger ejection port, a slightly beveled magazine well, and larger sights. And, of course, it has a throated barrel to reliably feed hollow point ammunition.
The Makhaira Priscilla Brush Sword is the brainchild of Josh Waggoner, a fellow who’s known as a martial artist as well as a knife designer. That intersection of interests goes a long way toward explaining the duality of this blade: equal parts practical landscaping tool and fierce weapon.
The idea here is to set up a perimeter and protect it against assailants. In crisis and survival situations, this action can undoubtedly save your life, since a properly chosen and well guarded perimeter will assist in preventing looters from stealing your vital supplies or, gangs from attacking you and your family.
Once you’ve chosen your perimeter, you have to protect it. However, it’s very difficult to have someone always stationed at every key area and be completely aware at all times – especially if your party is only comprised of two or three people. In such an event, an outdoor perimeter alarm system can really come in handy.
My recommendation for anyone living in a limited space is to focus on the priorities of survival first: water and food. Neglecting these essentials could lead to dire consequences in a crisis. There’s more (security, a roof over your head, and all sorts of helpful supplies), but given the limited space for storing extra things, you need to square away the basics first.
I would add something, though. I was watching a video from Black Pigeon Speaks where he discusses the lessons shared by Selco about surviving in Sarajevo during the Bosnian War ("Surviving COLLAPSE & CIVIL WAR") and the most important prep that Selco was recommending for urban collapse was weapons and ammo, and having a lot of people in your group.
We all take the infection fighting and lifesaving properties of antibiotics for granted these days, popping them into our mouths like candy whenever we have tonsillitis or a bug of some kind, completely ignorant to the fact that many of the bacterial infections they treat could so easily have killed us sixty years or so ago. I’m not suggesting that every infection that is treated with antibiotics is life threatening but even an infection that makes you so weak that you are unable to carry out your daily functions is, in my opinion, a danger to your very survival particularly in an environment where your survival is dependent on you being at your strongest.
The article discusses different antibiotics and what they are for, recommending that you have the following: Amoxicillin; Ciprofloxacin; Metronidazole; Ampicillin; and Cephalexin. He also discusses how to get these medicines, and special concerns with using fish antibiotics.
Just some gun and prepping related links that I thought interesting or useful:
The shortcut for choosing a load. Pattern check at 15 yards. Usually this will give you enough information to know whether or not it is worth shooting another 20 rounds to see how the rest plays out. If the pattern at 15 yards isn’t worthwhile, then it probably isn’t worth pursuing.
Defense ammo must have (1) ignition reliability, (2) functional reliability and (3) it must hit to the sights. After that, adequate penetration is good, decelerating in the target medium is likewise nice – but if it doesn't go “bang,” ties up in the gun, or hits “somewhere out there,” all that expensive bullet development and testing is a colossal waste of effort.
In my considerable experience – I was a handloader many years ago – I prefer premium defense ammo from ammo factories. I’ve seen too many failures with personally loaded, professionally remanufactured and bulk-pack low-cost range ammo from big factories to use anything but the premium stuff.
But, it’s up to you. What’s your life worth?
When it came to those who wrote for his law enforcement and self-defense periodicals, [Editor] Harry [Kane] had a strict rule, he didn’t print articles from anyone who had never carried a gun for living. At that time I was a combat veteran and was working full-time as a professional bodyguard.
Although that was several years before I got my first CCL, I remember my frustration once I had a CCL in trying to find good advice for the civilian on concealed carry. All the articles on concealed carry seemed to have been written by ex-law enforcement who apparently never had to worry about their gun printing or a co-worker noticing it on the belt. This explains why there wasn't better advice for the civilian.
... The Distance to opponent is an important factor in our Decisions about when and whether to deploy any given weapon, whether it be a firearm, an impact tool, or personal weapon (hands and feet). John Boyd examined this relationship in great detail in the Aerial Attack Study. Updated version of Boyd’s Aerial Attack Study At a given range, the pilot of a fighter aircraft would execute previously determined decisions about where to position himself and which weapon was appropriate to use at that distance.
Timing Errors are faulty decision choices based on the distance to the aggressor and positioning. One of the major issues mentioned in the class and then seen in the final evolution was going for In Fight Weapon Access (IFWA) too soon. When using an impact tool, the defender needs to be in a Dominant Position before attempting to draw the Jack or Sap. Going for it too soon allows either the aggressor to foul the draw or prevents the defender from effectively employing the tool.
According to Polaris Market Research, pepper spray sales — which are already valued at over $42 billion — saw a massive shift resulting from “technological advancements in pepper spray and the presence of global players in the region.”
“The U.S. market for pepper spray has gained substantial traction, a trend expected to persist throughout the forecast period, the analysis said. “Increasing investments in research and development activities for less-lethal self-defense weapons in the U.S. are anticipated to drive market expansion.”
Not only in the United States, but also in Canada, Mexico, and Asia, the prevalence of crimes such as eve-teasing, rape, kidnapping, murder, and human trafficking has boosted the demand for pepper spray.
But throughout my testing of the FM81, the longer blade was an inconvenience. It felt awkward and unnatural. I have decided that I would only be interested in carrying a longer-bladed knife under the most exceptional circumstances. If I found myself in exceptional circumstances, I would not mind carrying the FM81. But if I was carrying the FM81 into danger, I would want to carry it in a different sheath. It is my opinion that polymer is more suitable for handgun frames than knife sheaths.
I have one of these knives, but I would have been happier if it did not have the saw back spine. Unfortunately, the version without the spine (the FM 78) no longer appears to be manufactured. And it can be hard to release the knife from the sheath--it is very secure, though.
He also has some winter tips, so check out the whole thing.
Hedge fund manager and billionaire Ray Dalio has warned that the U.S. may be entering a new kind of “civil war” amid rising inequality and debt, as well as a breakdown in the global geopolitical order.
In an interview with Bloomberg TV which aired this week, the founder of Bridgewater Associates said that the forces which “shape the world” were all now being disrupted, and that America served as a prime example of this.
“We’re in wars. There is a financial, money war. There’s a technology war, there’s geopolitical wars, and there are more military wars,” he said. “And so we have a civil war of some sort which is developing in the U.S. and elsewhere, where there are irreconcilable differences.”
From the New York Post: " Illegal immigrant ID’d as attempted carjacker gunned down by Texas dad protecting his family of 8 ." ...