Gun & Prepping News #80

Some links that may be of interest:

• "Are Sub-Machine Guns Really Becoming a Thing of the Past?"--Shooting News Weekly. This is a short excerpt of an article from The Telegraph (which is, unfortunately, behind a paywall). The article appears to address the issue from a military perspective--particularly main line units. But it really comes down to how you define "submachine gun". Because an argument could be made that personal defense weapons (PDWs) for the military are submachine guns. And if it weren't for federal laws on automatic weapons, the strong interest in pistol caliber carbines suggests to me that many civilians would opt for a submachine gun if they could afford them. The lack of range which the article cites as a reason they have fallen out of use with the military is of little consequence to the civilian defender faced with short distances inside a house or business. 
• "Three-Dot Sights Suck and This is Why . . ."--Shooting News Weekly.  I'm not convinced. The theory advanced by the author is that the dots on the rear sight momentarily draw your attention from the front sight and might be confusing. He appears to be arguing for nothing on the rear sight. Perhaps there is some merit to his argument when shooting in daylight, but it is a different story when using tritium in very dim light. 

Chris Baker at Lucky Gunner addressed this same issue in an article entitled "Three-Dot Pistol Sights: Just Say No." He does not push for getting rid of all three-dot systems, "just the miserable little non-illuminated white-on-black 3-dot sights that come stock with almost every new handgun." Why?

 

    The main issue that I have with white three-dot sights is a lack of contrast. All three dots are the same color, and they’re usually about the same size, too. There’s too much competing for my attention.

    This isn’t good for quick sight acquisition or sight tracking during rapid fire. I want some visual aid to help my eyes distinguish that front sight from the rear. Ideally, that means a front sight with some kind of bright, contrasting color to help it stand out.

 

[snip]

 

    ... When I’m pulling the trigger five times per second on a rapid fire string, my eyes need as much help as they can get to see what’s going on. Following the front sight because “it’s in the middle” is a whole lot easier when it doesn’t look identical to the rear sights. In fact, plain black sights would even be preferable to the dots. If they all look the same, they’re more of a distraction than anything. 

 

His recommendation: "Personally, I prefer a two-dot setup with a bright fluorescent front sight and a small dot in the middle of the rear sight notch." But, he adds: "Three dot sights are just fine as long as there is contrast and something that will stand out in low light."

• "Fifty Years Of Pyrodex"--The Firearm Blog. The author begins:

Silly as it might seem, the world of muzzleloaders is constantly upgrading and changing to new technologies (similar to the world of bowhunting—try to figure that one out). But one thing has stayed constant over the past five decades. Pyrodex, the black powder substitute that many front-stuffer shooters prefer for its convenience, is celebrating 50 years on the market.

 The rest of the article discusses the history of Pyrodex. 

• "ATF Rolls Back Biden-Era Gun Rules in Sweeping 34-Policy Shift"--Guns America. The article mentions:

 Among the most notable moves:

•     Rescinding the “Engaged in the Business” rule
•     Rolling back the pistol brace rule
•     Eliminating certain record retention requirements
•     Clarifying what constitutes a “willful” violation of federal law
•     Removing CLEO notification requirements for NFA purchases

• "The Stenzel Industries SAK-21: A Uniquely American AK"--American Rifleman.  An AK for the 21st Century:

While maintaining some basic design features and aesthetics of the Kalashnikov, the SAK-21 makes significant departures. Its receiver is machined out of billet aluminum with a steel trunnion insert, and it has a user-changeable barrel. This design allows for cartridge conversion by swapping out the barrel, bolt and magazine. While currently offered in 7.62x39 mm, there are plans to add 5.56 NATO and other chambering options in the future. Its two-lug rotating bolt that operates in a carrier mimics the AK, but Stenzel has opted to go with a short-stroke gas piston operating system for softer felt recoil and better accuracy. The system is adjustable and tunable for optimized use with suppressors.  

The rifle looks good but out of my price range: it has an MSRP of $4,000. 

• "Ruger LCP MAX Gets Magpul Enhanced Handgun Grip Treatment"--The Firearms Blog.  

Ruger has teamed up with Magpul to deliver a new variant of the LCP MAX chambered in .380 Auto, this time wearing Magpul's Enhanced Handgun Grip (EHG). The collaboration brings a purpose-built grip module to one of the smallest and lightest pocket pistols on the market, wrapping it in a package that Ruger says improves control and shootability without growing the platform's footprint.

• "Review: Diamondback 9 mm SDR"--American Rifleman.  The author explains why offer a snub-nosed revolver in 9mm:

As of today, the 9 mm semi-automatic-pistol cartridge is among the most commonly used calibers in the U.S. and worldwide. This contributes to practice-grade and defensive ammunition being readily available and more affordable than some calibers. In fact, shooting a wheelgun chambered in 9 mm can save revolver aficionados money, as 9 mm practice ammo currently costs less than similar .38 Spl. loads.

• "Why Your Holster Retention Feels Too Tight or Too Loose"--Guerilla Tactical.  This article focuses on Kydex holsters. The author notes:

Holster retention can make or break your concealed carry setup, especially in apparel like athletic shorts. If it’s too tight, your draw becomes slow, inconsistent, and frustrating; not to mention it can cause wear on your firearm’s finish. If your holster retention is too loose, your firearm may not stay secure—creating a serious safety concern, especially in a situation where you need to be able to draw comfortably.  

 

He then discusses tips on why your holster retention might be too tight or too loose and tips on adjusting it. 

• "Concealed Carry Corner: Should You Carry The Same Position Every Time?"--The Firearm Blog.  Here is the issue:

There are a number of people who think you should carry the same handgun in the same position no matter what. Others think it's important to be flexible and carry various guns in various positions. Both arguments have their valid points, but what's best?  

For those that believe that you should carry in the same position all the time, I have a one word response: winter.  

• "Skills All Preppers Should Be Learning Today Before Something Devastating Happens"--The Late Prepper. The author lists categories of skills (medicine without a doctor; food from the land not a store; water; mechanical and trade skills; fire, shelter, and navigation; grid down communication) and list several skills for each. For instance, "medicine without a doctor" lists wound care, infection and fever, respiratory illness, and pain management; while the food from the land includes foraging, gardening, hunting, fishing, trapping, and food preservation. I know very bright people that are good at anything they put their hands to and pick up skills quickly. Most of us are not like that. But we can try to learn a bit about each general category and have some basic books and tools, while doing a deep dive into several of the others. For instance, for "medicine without a doctor" we can take a first aid class or two, store and become knowledgeable on how to use a first aid kit and trauma kit, as well as common over the counter medications; and some will take a deep dive in procuring and using antibiotics, or herbal remedies, or advanced medical skills. For the food category, the outdoorsman can learn hunting, fishing and foraging; the gardener can learn to preserve what they grow. 
• "Bugging Out Is the Last Option, So Prepare to Bug In for as Long as Possible"--The Late Prepper. A good article outlining the benefits to bugging in when possible versus bugging out to parts unknown (with the "bugging out" essentially becoming a refugee). The advantages to bugging in basically come down to already having shelter and the resources you have stocked up versus limited resources and not knowing where you will lay your head. 
• "Hunting Boot 101"--American Hunter. A deep dive into hunting boots--different boots for different environments, some brands and materials the author recommends. 
• "Protein Powder as a Survival Food: Is it Any Good?"--Modern Survival Online.  Short take: "Yes, protein powder is a pretty good survival food. It’s an easy and convenient way to carry plenty of easily digested protein and calories with you, and is versatile enough to be prepared and drunk as is or mixed in with other foods. It isn’t, though, nutritionally complete."
• "Roasting coffee on a wood stove"--Backwoods Home Magazine.  I don't drink coffee but some of you may find this useful. The author remarks:

     If you’re just looking for a hot cup of caffeine, instant coffee is the most practical option for storage; it lasts for decades. But if you love a rich cup of coffee and are concerned about the possibility of being without electricity, buy a small manual coffee grinder, an inexpensive pour-over coffee maker, and a selection of green coffee beans.

    Why green coffee beans? They can be purchased online for about half the price of roasted designer coffee beans. They store for at least a year, and if they’re kept cool and dry they can last three years or more.

    Even if there is no electricity, the beans can be roasted on a wood stove. All you need is a cast-iron skillet, a heat-resistant utensil for stirring, a hot wood stove, and a little patience. Be prepared for some smoke. It helps to have a heat-powered stove fan or an open window while roasting.

•  "Mother Nature’s Best Home Remedies"--Homesteading Magazine. The author lists 10 medicinal plants to grow including Great Burdock, Marsh Mallow, and Aloe Vera. The article also includes 10 weeds that have medicinal purposes. 

VIDEO: Hat Weight--Turning Your Hat Into A Weapon

If you wear a ball cap, trucker's cap, or similar, with an open band in the back for adjusting the hat size, this might be something you can use. It is a weight that fits over the adjustment band allowing the hat to be used somewhat like a sap or slungshot.  

 VIDEO: "Government hates this, it's a hat weight"
CarryTrainer (4 min.)

VIDEO: NIR Compliant Uniforms vs. Knockoffs As Seen Thru Nightvision

In this video, the YouTube channel "Dirty Civilian" tested different uniforms under night vision/near infrared to see if there is any difference between the genuine issue uniforms and cheap knockoffs (mostly from China). They also tested whether washing using a detergent with brighteners makes a difference, and the difference between solid colors versus camo patterns. 

    Basically, there was no difference between the genuine uniforms and the knock-offs when viewed through night vision. Also, using a detergent with a brightener made no difference, nor did it matter if the uniforms had gone through many washes. There was some advantage to certain camo patterns over solid colors simply because the patterns can still break up the shape.

    What they discovered, however, is that different fabrics vary in how they reflect in the infrared. The standard uniform fabrics appear equally dim in the near infrared as in daylight, but polyester fabrics can show up as very bright under an infrared light. 

    Also, I think that the reason that many people believed that the detergents with whiteners are bad to use in connection to night vision is because they are mixing up infrared with ultraviolet. Deer and some other animals can see slightly into the ultraviolet spectrum, and clothes washed with brighteners will show up much more readily in ultraviolet, especially in dim light. So hunters know to avoid washing their hunting camo in detergents with whiteners. (See also this article with tips on washing and drying your hunting clothes). But, as noted above, it apparently makes no difference in the infrared spectrum.

 VIDEO: "Are Knockoff Combat Uniforms Just as Good? | Night Vision Clothing"
Dirty Civilian (25 min.)

Review: Mechanix Leather M-Pact® Insulated Driver F9-360 Gloves

 

    Back in mid-September, Mechanix Wear, which makes the Mechanix brand work gloves, was having a 30% off site-wide sale, with even better deals on certain products, so I picked up a couple pairs of gloves including the Leather M-Pact® Insulated Driver F9-360 Gloves which were being offered for 60% off, or basically $30 for the pair. (Going back to their website as I write this, I see that they are still being offered for this price and they are having a 25% site-wide sale on most other products). 

     The gloves are, as indicated, leather with rubber "armor" over the knuckles and back of the fingers to protect against you hand getting hurt should it get struck, or your hand strike something. If you have worked on cars or plumbing, you know how easy it is to "bark" your knuckles if a wrench slips or something suddenly gives. 

    The leather seems reasonably thick so they should function well as work gloves. They are insulated with 100g PrimaLoft® Gold performance insulation according to the website. I could not find any information as to a temperature rating, however. Nevertheless, there was still a reasonable amount of manual dexterity with the fingers. I don't think that you could do fine work with the on, but for using tools, picking up wood, doing yard work, changing a tire, and so on, they should work fine.

    The flexibility is important to me because I have a pair of heavy insulated gloves that are great at keeping my hands toasty warm in even 0 degree F (-17.7 C) weather, but the insulation is so thick that it makes it hard to use them for yard work and even makes my hands hurt after a while. I bought these specifically to address that issue.

    There is also a woven cuff inside the opening to the glove to keep wind or snow from getting into the gloves. You can see this cuff poking out a bit on the glove on the left side in the photograph above.

    Even though I received the gloves in September, I didn't really have a need to use them until a couple weekends ago. The temperatures had dropped well into the 20s and I think it was still below freezing when I started to work filling my utility trailer with scrap wood to take to the local landfill. I initially had gone out with a lighter pair of work gloves, but decided it was too cold and decided it was a good opportunity to try the gloves. (And also a good time to get a couple photos before the gloves got dirty).

    The worked great: they were comfortable, kept my hands warm and I had no issues with loading the wood scraps and picking up pieces from the ground. I also used them with hooking up the trailer (other than plugging in the wiring for the brake lights and turn signals).  

Some Articles of Interest to Preppers/Survivalists

•  "The Science of Survival: Wool Blankets" by Aden Tate, Organic Prepper. Fall is almost here and temperature are starting to cool off in the mountains. I was up hiking this weekend at a place that pretty much has the same temperatures in the summer as Boise, but this weekend, as the sun dropped below the top of the mountains, the temperature dipped into the 60s whereas it was still in the lower 80s once I got back out to a main road, even though the elevation drop was probably less than 100 feet. It was a good reminder that cold weather is just around the corner. So I thought this article on why wool blankets are so good for prepping--actually, wool generally as a clothing material. As you probably already know, one of the key advantages for using wool is that it retains heat even when wet, unlike many other other materials. But it is, as the author discusses, just a much better insulative material than those used in most blankets, which he backs up with some informal tests. 
• Speaking of fall weather, hunting seasons are upon us: "How to Field Dress a Deer: A Step-By-Step Guide"--Athlon Outdoors. Not a bad article, although I wish it had been illustrated.
• James Taylor, at Watts Up With That, writes: "MSN Pushes Rice, Sugar, Tomato Crises – Despite New Crop Records." For instance, he points out, "according to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (UNFAO), global tomato production is faring quite well. In fact, the UNFAO reports that global tomato production has set new records an amazing 10 years in a row." Likewise: "According to the UNFAO, 2019 saw the largest global sugar crop in history. All 10 of the largest sugar crops in history occurred during the past 10 years. During the past 15 years, global sugar production has increased by more than 33 percent." And as for rice:

    ... According to the UNFAO, global rice production set a new record in 2021, the latest year for which data is available. All three of the three largest crop years occurred during the past three years. All five of the five largest crop years occurred during the past five years. All 10 of the 10 largest crop years occurred during the past 10 years.

    The article focuses special attention on rice yields in India, China, and Myanmar. However, the growth in India’s rice production is even more impressive than the growth in global rice production. India has absolutely smashed its rice production records six years in a row. In China, 2021 was the second-highest rice crop in history. All six of China’s highest-ever rice crops were produced in the past six years. Myanmar rice production is declining – an aberration compared to the global trend – but that is because of Myanmar’s horrible domestic political situation, not climate change. As reported by Human Rights Watch, “Since staging a coup on February 1, 2021, the Myanmar military has carried out a brutal nationwide crackdown on millions of people opposed to its rule. The junta security forces have carried out mass killings, arbitrary arrests, torture, sexual violence, and other abuses that amount to crimes against humanity.” Blaming climate change for Myanmar’s declining crop production is giving a pass to political brutality and human rights abuses.

It's almost like the MSN wants us to believe that increasing food prices are due to something other than inflation caused by the fiscal mismanagement of the government.

• Over at the Survival Blog, guest writer Rick S. writes about his experience with the Bluetti AC180, a charge controller/battery bank/inverter to use with a small scale solar system. (Part 1) (Part 2). Part 1 goes over more general issues with solar power and figuring out how much you need (not want, but what will get you by in a grid-down situation). Part 2 discusses the Bluetti AC180 and his experience with it. Briefly, however:

The heart of the AC180 is a bank of Lithium Iron batteries with an advertised life of 3,500 charge/discharge cycles and is warranted for five years. Integrated into the package is a charge controller capable of charging from a number of sources: 120 VAC house supply, car charger, or solar panels. It then is capable of supplying that stored power in a number of ways: various USB connections, a 12 volt DC cigarette lighter plug, a cordless charging capability, and four 120 VAC receptacles. The inverter necessary to convert the direct current stored in the batteries to the alternating current at the 120 VAC receptacles is integrated into the package as well.

It apparently has a full power discharge capacity of 1,152 watt-hours, which matches with his tests. He also discusses using solar panels with it and some tips and warnings about certain panels.

• Speaking of electricity,  Ken J. at the Modern Survival Blog writes about the "Best Rechargeable Batteries AA Size." He doesn't mince words: the best are the eneloop (which he indicates are currently made in Japan by Panasonic). He notes that "[t]he eneloop will recharge up to 2,100 times! That’s a big reason why (in my opinion) they are the best rechargeable batteries AA." And, he adds: "Let me put that into perspective. If you used up and recharged this battery once a week, its lifetime would be 40 years! Once a day? Almost 6 years!" They also retain a charge well: 90% after one year, according to the information the author provides. He also gives a recommendation as to a battery charger.
• Heading back to the Survival Blog, guest writer "J.M." has a 5-piece article setting up a local network using a Raspberry Pi, router, and NextCloud cloud server software. (Part 1) (Part 2) (Part 3) (Part 4) (Part 5). His goals for the project were:

• Moderate technical knowledge – I wanted something that didn’t require extensive expertise of things like networking, Linux, etc. – just a moderate level of technical computer skills like plugging into the Internet, downloading and installing software, navigating around your computer using a file explorer and working with files. It also helps if you’re reasonably skilled at searching the web for help when you run into problems.
• Options – The infrastructure should support a wide range of standard technologies such as Windows, MacOS, Linux, Chrome OS, Android, iOS, WiFi, Ethernet, etc.
• Flexible cost – The core infrastructure should be under $150 USD, with both higher and lower-cost options based on your needs and budget. Note that this cost doesn’t include mobile devices/cell phones or a laptop computer, since I assume most people already have those.
• DC powered – The ability to power everything from a 5V DC USB port or a 12V outlet.
• Compact – The core components (excluding the laptop) should fit into a .50 cal ammo can that’s been modified for EMP protection.
• Ease of use – The network and supporting components should be fast and easy to set up and use.
• Expandable – You should be able to add more capabilities in the future.
• Independent – The infrastructure should be able to function entirely on its own without any connection to the Internet, other than during the initial setup and occasionally for updates and upgrades.
• Reliable – Something that can run for years.

The author's purposes for such a network are:

• Mapping
• View and share detailed maps among team members
• Add notes, pictures, etc. to maps and share them
• Plan and share routes
• Share and manage documents/photos/videos
• Reference materials
• Manuals/Standards Operating Procedures (SOPs)
• Reports
• Intelligence
• Entertainment
• eBooks
• Videos
• Games
• Collaborate
• Notes, thoughts, observations, experiences, etc.
• Manage schedules and events
• Create, assign, and track tasks
• Communicate
• Text, voice, video

    Although not mentioned above, education would be another purpose of such system. There are numerous e-books, software, and video for teaching not only academic subjects, but all sorts of skills; and these would work well for kids (or adults) with the ability to use multiple computers at a time to access the data.

    Part 1 is an overview of the purposes of such system (why you might want one) and some of the hardware you will need to buy. Part 2 is mostly about physically setting up the Raspberry Pi. Part 3 is about plugging together the equipment and connecting to the Internet. Part 4 is about setting up the Cloud Server. And Part 5 goes over the final steps to setting up the software for the Cloud server as well as some other applications that you might want to use.

•  A grim milestone. Breitbart, reporting on September 15, related that "Libya Flood Death Toll Reaches 11,300." And it will continue to climb:

    Both Libyan and international officials said the deaths were difficult to count because the city of Derna was so heavily damaged, the security situation in Libya remains perilous, the country has no national government, and many of the dead may have been washed out to sea.

    The health minister of the eastern Libyan government, Othman Abduljaleel, told reporters that divers have been deployed to find bodies offshore. Other teams are searching for bodies in the rubble of Derna, having largely given up hope of finding survivors.

And then there is the fingerpointing:

    The day before Mediterranean Storm Daniel struck Libya, Mayor al-Ghaithi told a news conference that the area around Derna’s rickety dams should be evacuated, but the Interior Ministry of the Tobruk government ordered curfews instead.

    The mayor’s office said the dams, which were built in the 1970s, had not been maintained in years, even though audit reports found millions of dollars allocated for maintenance. Tripoli-based PM Dbeibah cited the poor maintenance record in his call for an investigation.

    The attorney general for the western government, Mohamed al-Menfi, threatened consequences for “everyone who made a mistake or neglected either in abstaining or taking actions that resulted in the collapse of the dams in the city of Derna.”

    The speaker for the Parliament of the eastern government, Aguila Saleh, insisted that no one should blame Tobruk for the horrific death toll.

    “Don’t say ‘if only we’d done this, if only we’d done that.’ What took place in our country was an incomparable natural disaster,” Saleh said.

• "How To Survive An EMP Attack"--Athlon Outdoors. Some basic information on how to survive an EMP attack (essentially something requiring a high altitude nuclear detonation, although more local EMP effects could come from more typical nuclear detonations nearer the surface).
• "Prepping For Widespread Major Disaster With Little or No Budget"--Modern Survival Blog. This is more than just a "baby-steps" plan as the author discusses some of the water filtration systems available and prices, cheap food to store (focusing mostly on rice and beans), advising that your best and most cost effective shelter will probably be where you are currently living.
• And speaking of food storage: "Tuna in Oil vs Water – Which One is Better"--Modern Survival Blog. Short take:

    The main difference is this.. Tuna in oil has about four times as much fat as tuna in water. Consequently, tuna in oil contains more calories than tuna in water for the same size can.

    If you’re here viewing this from a calorie-conscious point of view (e.g. watching one’s calories), then tuna in water is your likely better choice. Though you probably instinctively already knew that.

    From a prepping and preparedness point of view, in my opinion, tuna in oil is a better choice than tuna in water. That’s because one factor we’re looking for is calorie density for what’s on our shelves (storage efficiency). Unfortunately for me, my issue here is that Mrs. J prefers tuna in water. Oh well.. Happy wife, Happy life..

 The author goes over calories in more detail as well as some other reasons to pick one over the other. One of the comments also points out that you might want the tuna oil for other reasons/uses.

No Short Shorts For SHTF

For those old enough to remember, the 1970s and '80s was the era of the short shorts. Just typing the words reminds me of the old Nair ads....

And shorter shorts weren't just limited to women. Athletic shorts and swimwear worn by men at that time were also shorter and tighter than is common now. A good example of this are the shorts worn by the Rhodesian Selous Scouts:

And these were the more modest ones!

    Of course fashions change. Bermuda shorts became more popular and it wasn't long until the modern cargo shorts made their appearance. And for a lot of men--myself included--cargo shorts are the standard go-to for outdoor wear in the summer. The reasons are obvious: they are cooler and provide more freedom of movement.

    But are shorts, even the longer cargo shorts of today, actually a good idea for dangerous environments? "No!" according to this article by Don Shift at American Partisan. Although shorts can have some advantages (and he discusses some of the advantages cited by former Selous Scout members) he notes that as the Selous Scouts transformed from true scouts primarily involved in tracking and became more of a light infantry force, even they abandoned their shorts for long pants (trousers for my British readers) because of the greater protection offered by pants. In fact, going to the opposite extreme, he observes that military units operating in the Brazilian Caatinga desert, which is filled with spiny and thorny plants, wear "tough, full-bodied denim uniforms reinforced with leather complete with gloves."

    Shift mentions concerns about snake bites, biting insects, cuts from pushing through brush or from thorny plants, or even scraps from suddenly having to go prone on a rocky surface. All of these could result in infections which, in an austere setting without access to medical care and antibiotics (such as we might find ourselves in a SHTF environment), could become quite serious or deadly. 

    "Post-SHTF," he writes, "it could be major diseases, including 'exotic' ones imported by the foreigners pouring across our undefended southern border. Imagine going prone on a rocky surface in a firefight and surviving unscathed, aside from a bloody abrasion to the knee, only to die in a few weeks from septic shock."

    And I have to concur. For just walking around in the open, shorts are great. But just working around my property, kneeling on the ground for some gardening, working among tall grass or cutting up brush, I've received scratches and bug bites when wearing shorts. Mowing while wearing shorts has also gained me a few cuts from the occasional rock or twig thrown out from under the mower. The ground where I often go shooting is covered with some sort of small thorny plant that, while not big enough to cause any significant bleeding if you kneel on them with exposed skin, are certainly enough to introduce contaminants or microorganisms. Some of the land in that same area have large amounts of exposed volcanic rock that would definitely tear up knees if you had to go prone. Ditto for going prone on a driveway, sidewalk, or similar. 

    Shift also points out that shorts (or exposed skin in general) are at risk from sunburn or even excessive heat:

Shorts may feel comfortable up to a point, but if it’s too hot, like over 100°, exposed skin is letting the heat in. If you visit Las Vegas or Phoenix, you’ll notice police officers wearing full length sleeves even in 115° heat. Yes, sunscreen has reduced the need for covering the skin in the summer sun, but heat control is more important in very high temperatures. One could always compromise (especially if there is a breeze) by wearing lightweight, but long sleeves.

Another article explains:

One reason behind this has to do with our sweat. Sweat is a natural bodily cooling mechanism, and long sleeves in a sweat-wicking fabric keep your skin drier than a short sleeve shirt. Long sleeves provide airflow between the fabric and your skin, almost like a wind tunnel keeping you even cooler. Additionally, the fabric on the sleeve provides a bit of shade to your skin that short sleeves do not. 

I have family members that are prone to sunburns, so they mostly stick to long sleeve shirts (although longer shorts or capri style pants seem less of an issue). If I'm getting clothing for outdoor wear, I try and watch for those that advertise their UPF rating. 

    While I generally see UPF ratings for shirts and hats, I don't know that I've ever seen (or noticed) pants with UPF ratings. But they exist, as a quick Google search revealed. But if you are just going to stick to denim pants, they have a UPF rating as high as 1700 (!) and will essentially block all UV according to this article (long sleeve denim shirts provide similar protection). Lightweight cotton or polyester fabrics may have very low UPF ratings--less than the 30 recommended by experts. And because darker or bright colored fabrics offer more UV protection than white or light colored fabric--and some UV fabrics use chemicals to boost their protection--be aware that the UPF can decline over time as the fabric is washed or fades. 

    In short (ha, ha!) shorts are fine for casual summer wear. But not for cleaning up after a disaster, hunting, or fighting off looters after SHTF. And just another reminder that you need to match your clothes to your environment and situation. 

The Bump-in-the-Night Belt

We are familiar from literature and film of the idea of the barbarian warrior with the broad war belt around his waist, the knight strapping on his sword belt, or the Western gunslinger buckling on a gun belt before heading out to his fate at high noon. 

    Belts (also termed garters in past centuries regardless of the sex of wearer) were commonly used to not only gather clothing and hold it tight against the body, but were handy for hanging money pouches or purses, as well as items such as knives or swords; or, moving to more modern times, holding ammunition pouches and pistol scabbards. Important for our discussion here, such belts were not generally used for holding up one's trousers.

    Here are a couple examples used by the military in the early 20th Century:

World War I era "Sam Browne" Belt with cross brace
(Source: Wikimedia)

An early World War II improved M1912 web pistol belt
Source: "The U.S. Army M1910 Pattern Combat Equipment Web Belt"

And, of course, there is the quintessential Western gunfighter belt:

Note the buttons for attaching suspenders.
Source: Historical Emporium

The idea of such war belts or battle belts was a setup that didn't have to be worn at all times, but could be quickly strapped on (with weapons or accessories attached) when needed. 

    U.S. law enforcement primarily used Sam Browne belts through the 1960s, although many agencies had already started ditching the shoulder strap due to safety issues well before the 1970s in favor of keepers to connect the duty belt to trouser belts. The next big development was the Velcro duty belt. Rebecca Stone relates, at Police 1:

    With 1974 came a new uniform for the LAPD and a Velcro Sam Browne setup. According to Scott Carnahan, back in the '70s the LARD wanted to get away from the metal buckle because of its reflectiveness, which could potentially make officers a target, especially at night.

    He said that Neale Perkins, founder of Safariland, was working out of his garage back then when he developed a belt for the large agency with back hooks and Velcro to get around this problem. The result was a comfortable, buckleless duty belt. Debuted by Officers Reed and Malloy on the popular TV show Adam12, the design reportedly caught on in other parts of country.

This double belt system--an inner belt connected to an outer belt via a Velcro hook and loop system--seems to have become standard for most law enforcement, at least in the United States.

    Militaries have experimented with different ways for soldiers to carry a basic fighting load as well, going back and forth between belt and belt with webbing (i.e., suspenders) since at least the mid-1800s, with chest rigs and load bearing vests becoming more popular in recent decades. However, based on what I've been seeing, the double belt systems derived from the police duty belt designs have become more popular with "operators".  

    You could be forgiven for thinking that "fighting loads" and "battle belts" would have little application for the civilian outside of a post-SHTF, post-WROL situation requiring civilians to temporarily take on police or military type roles. If you carry a weapon daily, you will have one or more gun belts, appropriate holsters, and maybe even a magazine holder for when you leave your home; and, at home, even if you don't have a weapon on you, you probably have one readily accessible (e.g., a "night-stand" gun). I've written before, for instance, of grabbing a handgun that I can slip into a pocket when checking out bumps in the night.

    But is that enough? I thought so. 

    Then a few years ago I picked up a Sig P220 in .45 ACP. Because of certain of its characteristics, I decided that I would mount a weapon light on it and use it for my "night stand" gun (although that is not where I kept it). Then, in March 2020, I received a holster from Craftholsters that was designed to fit a Sig P220 with a weapon light (you can read my review of the holster here). The holster did not lend itself to concealed carry but was intended as a duty holster of some type. And thinking about it, it did seem preferable to have a holster and belt that I would quickly strap on when needed. 

    A few months later, in corresponding with a long time reader about chest rigs, battle belts, and other types of load bearing equipment, he described his set up using a belt with some kangaroo pouches attached in which he could carry both rifle and pistol magazines (or pepper spray). He selected gear from Condor to test out the concept because, as he described it, "it was inexpensive" and "if it worked [but] the Condor rig wasn't solid [he] could get something better" without being out a lot of money. However, he was mostly pleased with the results--he was able to successfully wear the set up while out and about while concealed and the gear seemed to work well.

    I picked up a couple of the kangaroo pouches he recommended (although they ultimately went onto a plate carrier) and proceeded to go down the rabbit-hole of researching battle belts and watching numerous videos on what belts to select and what load outs to have, many of which I've shared on this blog. I might as well have saved myself the trouble and just gone with what my correspondent had recommended, because that is basically where I wound up.

    I won't bore you with the details of my research or my journey to my final conclusions. I will just go over my conclusions based on my needs (or mission, if you will). Although it is exciting to imagine patrolling through the woods, defending one's homestead against marauders, or serving as a partisan like the Wolverines in Red Dawn, I don't have a large tract of property to patrol and am much more likely to be confronting someone breaking into my storage shed than fighting off marauders or troops of communist soldiers. My mission is home defense and, to a lesser extent, what I might want when engaging in recreational shooting. With that in mind, the gear that I would need to attach would be minimal: a holster (ideally the holster I mentioned above for my P220), a couple magazine pouches, and a pouch for a pepper spray container. However, I wanted the ability to add or change holsters or pouches should my needs evolve. 

    With that in mind, lets turn to the belt. The major division you will find in battle belts are those that are intended to simply go around your waist similar to the belts historically issued by the military (typical modern designs will use some sort of non-slip material on the back to help keep it from moving around too much)--which may or may not have attachment points for a suspender system--and systems using inner and outer belts. Of course, within those two basic divisions you will find varying quality, prices and accessories. For instance, several of the top end inner/outer belt systems include D-rings so that the belt can be used with ropes for hanging off helicopters.

    Since I wanted something that I could throw on over sweat pants, pajamas (ok, a pair of shorts), or a bath robe, the inner/outer belt systems would obviously not work. So, something basic to go around the waist. 

    I wanted MOLLE/PALS attachments so I could put different pouches on it which ruled out a law enforcement style belt. 

    And although I eventually decided that I didn't need to have the same belt used by the elite Special Operations guys (nor did I want to spend the money for such), my research had convinced me of the merits of a high quality buckle. One of the most widely used in the high end belts was a buckle produced by a company called Cobra. So, Cobra buckle it would be, if possible.

    So, after all of that, I wound up back with the belt my friend had originally recommended: the Condor Outdoor LCS Cobra Tactical Belt (which comes with a Cobra quick release buckle). I've provided an Amazon link, but I actually purchased it from a local seller so that I could examine it and try it on first. I will note that it is oversized as it is intended for wearing over heavy clothing. So, if you are going to use it almost exclusively in warmer weather, you might want to consider going down a size (e.g., from Large to Medium). 

    It comes in various colors. A coyote, which is what I purchased, as well as a green and a black model. I haven't seen them in any camouflage patterns, however. 

My basic belt setup.

    The belt actually can be used in a double belt system if you wanted: it just doesn't come with the inner belt, but instead has a slip resistant pad velcroed to the inside. This makes it more comfortable to wear on its own and helps prevent the belt from slipping around a bit. Will it totally prevent the belt from shifting? Probably not. That is one of the advantages of the double belt design; but, as noted earlier, the double belt system is impractical for my needs.

    I wouldn't be totally put off by having to independently purchase the inner belt. I noticed as I reviewed products that in many cases (not all, but many) I liked the features of the outer belt but not the inner belt, or vice versa, so it is something that I would probably change up over time anyway.

Close up of the inner pad.

    The belt comes with a Cobra quick release buckle which has a reputation of being a strong and tough buckle. There is a considerable amount of adjustment on each side to either open up or reduce the size of the belt. The adjustments for the outer belt also use a hook and loop attachment and connect underneath the inner pad. The advantage to this system is that you don't have to worry about the ends dangling around or having to roll them up in their own keeper; the disadvantage is that it is slower to make adjustments. I don't see having to constantly adjust the length, though, so I don't see this as a problem. If I was using this belt in constantly changing environments, or saw myself frequently adding or subtracting thick layers, it might be an issue--something that I will have to test.

Close up of buckle. It's steel.

    Rather than a kangaroo pouch system, I opted for a Condor double pistol magazine pouch. These are a generic sized pouch, but they have elastic panels to keep it reasonably tight, so they will fit a double-stack pistol magazine such as for the Glock 17, or the single stack .45 ACP magazines such as for the 1911 or, in my case, those used in the Sig P220. They have flaps that also protect the magazine and keep them in place, but I noticed that the flaps can be removed if you want to have faster access.

Double magazine pouch and dump pouch.

    I also included a Condor OC Pepper Spray Canister Pouch. The pouch is pretty large--bigger than my pepper spray canister, so I have used the pocket clip for my pepper spray to hold it higher in the pouch so I can grab it if necessary.

Holster and pepper spray pouch. You can see how I used the pocket clip on the pepper spray canister to make sure it didn't slip too far down into the pouch.

    And, finally, I put on a dump pouch I purchased years ago and which has since been gathering dust in a box, mostly for when I take the belt with me out shooting. 

    You will note that I don't have a flashlight pouch on this. My thinking is that if I was grabbing this in the night, I would also be grabbing a flashlight; and if it was the daytime, I would not need the flashlight. If I was going to use this for patrolling purposes--as part of a neighborhood patrol after SHTF--I can easily add a flashlight and pouch (I already have one) or carry one in a pocket using a pocket clip. 

    I haven't decided whether to attach my tourniquet and its pouch or leave it on my first aid kit, but I'm leaning toward including it as well. I've also been considering whether to attach a knife or collapsible baton. It is an evolving project. 

    Finally, because I intended it for quick access, I have installed a hook on which I can hang the belt at night. That makes it easy and quick to get to. I know that best practice is to keep weapons locked up, but I also think back to an article from Sheriff Jim Wilson relating the incident of a friend shot in the back by an home invader while his friend was trying to retrieve a firearm from a gun safe. And I don't have any young children to worry about.

    So, is this the setup that I would use for a combat or patrol load out? No. But that isn't my purpose with it. And if the situation were to change, I can reconfigure it with additional or different items. 

Winter Field Tips

(Source)

I've had a couple posts recently with some tips for dressing for the winter (see here and here). I definitely got to put some of them to use this past weekend. 

    Between the wet weather we had earlier this month (which turns the ground to a thick, sticky mud perfect for getting stuck) and other activities, I hadn't been out shooting for a bit. This past weekend, though, with morning temperatures in the teens, I decided it was probably safe to try and reach my favorite shooting spot because whatever areas hadn't dried would have frozen. I was mostly right.

    I had two main reasons for going shooting (well, other than I hadn't been for a few weeks). First was to test out the 1911 on which I had swapped out the flat main spring housing for an arched one (I wrote about that here). Second, with Idaho having such a large budget surplus, the legislature had authorized an additional tax return. Like a good, responsible person, I could have put it into savings; but being a gun guy, that just wasn't going to happen. I decided to check another off my "bucket list" of firearms and purchased a Smith & Wesson Model 317 "Kit Gun". 

    For those of you unfamiliar with S&W's kit guns, it is in reference to the small .22 LR revolvers built on the J-frame with short 3-inch barrels: the idea is that these are revolvers small and light enough for a fisherman, camper or hiker to throw into his kit and use for taking small game, to dispatch snakes or other vermin, or for casual plinking. Barrel lengths have varied over time, but mostly have been in the 3-inch range.

    Tom Clapper has an excellent history of the developments leading up to the production of the first "kit guns" and its subsequent changes (link here).  The gist, however, is that the kit gun developed out of S&W's .32 hand ejector revolvers on the I-frame but chambered in .22 LR. After some starts and fits in the early 20th Century, but in 1936 S&W released its first .22 revolver labelled as a "kit gun": the .22/32 Kit Gun, still using the I-frame designed for the .32 revolver. In 1957, with S&W switching to a system of using model numbers instead of names, the kit gun became the Model 34. In 1958, S&W began production of the an "Airweight" kit-gun using a J-frame sized frame known as the Model 43. The steel framed kit gun was converted to a J-frame in 1960. In 1977, S&W released its first stainless steel kit gun: the Model 63. 

    Production has stopped and started again on different models, and changes have led to different model designations. As Dave Campbell reported in a 2018 article, "[t]he Model 34 was discontinued in 1991 though there were a few reissues. Today it exists in two more modern configurations, the Model 317 with an aluminum frame, 3" barrel and an eight-shot cylinder or the Model 63, with a stainless steel frame, 3" barrel and an eight-shot cylinder." 

    I've long wanted a kit gun, particularly after hefting the aluminum framed/aluminum cylinder versions. These weigh in at 11.7 ounces and have fully adjustable rear sights. Today's Model 317 also sports a bright green fiber optic front sight. This particular model is popular with hikers and backpackers because of its light weight. It is perfectly adequate for protection against aggressive dogs, raccoons or other critters, can be used for signaling, and if worse came to worse, could be pressed into use for self-defense. They are pricey--especially when compared to a .22 semi-auto--which is why I've held off buying one for so long. The MSRP is $839.00. I paid about $80 less for mine at a local gun shop. 

    Since my youngest son is supposed to be practicing his driving preparatory to getting his driver's license, after we got off the highway, I let him drive the paved country road from the highway to where we turn off onto a dirt path. He was going too fast trying to make the turn off, but I did learn that my SUV will drift without rolling. Anyway, after that bit of excitement and a few seconds to recover, I exited the vehicle and was glad to learn that the mud had mostly frozen, so off we went into the desert. 

    The one thing you can count on in a southern Idaho desert is the wind and we weren't disappointed. It wasn't terrible--it wasn't near strong enough to blow over targets which is not an infrequent problem--but it was a steady strong breeze that nevertheless seemed to find every opening in one's clothing. My youngest son had forgotten his gloves, but fortunately I keep a spare pair of cold-weather gloves in my vehicle. These are some insulated gloves made by Head that I picked up at Costco many years ago. I've since replaced them for regular wear because they got a slight tear in one finger, but the insulating and waterproofing layers are still intact.

    My oldest son and I both were wearing thin gloves conducive to shooting. These were also Head brand that I picked up at Costco years ago (are you sensing a pattern, here?) that are a thin polyester and intended for sporting activities. Importantly, they are thin enough to safely use when shooting and handling firearms. Better than bare skin, but still left us with cold fingers. 

    I started with shooting the Model 317. I wanted to test its function and reliability, but also had brought along some Federal Punch in .22LR to test. If I'm going to be carrying the kit gun hiking or camping, I wanted ammo such that the revolver could be pressed into a self-defense role. The weapon functioned fine--it went bang every time I pulled the trigger--and it pretty much shot to point of aim (POA) at 5 yards. It was cold and I still wanted to try the 1911 so I didn't spend a lot of time with the revolver. Besides, I figured, if your firearm functions flawlessly at 17 or 18 degrees F, it probably will work under most any conditions. I'll do a lengthier test later.

    We spent a little more time with the Remington 1911 mostly because my kids also wanted to shoot it. My oldest son, in particular, was interested in how the arched mainspring housing would help as his Kimber has a flat one. As I expected, it pointed more naturally for me and I was, therefore, able to shoot it more accurately at a decent pace of fire. It seemed to work better for my son as well. Instead of the paper target I'd used to test the revolver, we used the steel dueling tree I'd brought out. My sons shot against each other and I shot against my oldest son. He also tried the Remington on his own. After that I worked with my youngest son using the paper target so I could bring the target up close and help him with getting a proper grip and improve trigger control. 

    There were a couple times when the 1911 didn't fully go into battery, which probably was because of the cold. Years ago I was out shooting with some friends in temperatures that were even much colder, and the best we could do was 4 or 5 rounds from a semi-auto before having feeding problems. We'd then have to put the guns inside our coats for a few minutes to warm up and shoot some more. They were having more problems than me, which I put down to them typically using more lubricant than I do. They were also having problems with their ARs. I had an Mini-14 at the time that worked without issue, but I again put this down to differences in lubing practices. My pump action shotgun I'd brought out also worked fine. But I vowed after that trip--which had temperatures in the low single digits or perhaps even colder out on the flats in the desert--that I was never again going to practice in that cold of weather.

    But back to my recent trip. Did I say it was cold with a strong breeze? The main problems were my hands, because of the thin gloves, and my ears because I had not brought a hat that covered my ears. My kids were complaining of the cold as well, so we packed up early, I drove out to the paved road, let my youngest drive back to the highway, and then I drove the rest of the way back home. I haven't told my wife about my son "drifting" the car. That's a story for his friends.

    In my earlier post on cold weather tips, I mentioned some ideas from one of my readers. He has some more tips which I'd like to share:

    A small pc cut from an old yoga mat can be used to sit on in snow and keep your ass from getting wet.

We decided to call it a day before moving to shooting some rifle so fortunately I didn't find myself sitting on the ground (although I had a shooting mat with me). But this seems a more compact solution and would work if I found myself using a formal shooting range with shooting benches and chairs. My wife hasn't used her yoga mat for a few years so I'm sure she won't notice. 

    Also, he adds: 

    There are gloves, intended for use by auto mechanics I think, available at many hdwr stores that fit tightly/ have textured grips.  I often wear a pair of these under warmer gloves/ mittens.  If I need to deal w/ something that requires a degree of dexterity, I can ditch the outer glove/ mitten and even in extreme cold have a minute or two before my hands become so cold that I lose feeling/ dexterity.  Also, I can touch metal (ski bindings, a knife blade, gun barrel/ slide, etc.,) w/o freezing/ losing skin.

    If you carry a Bic lighter, pry the little "child protection" wheel off of it.  Child proof can become adult proof in cold weather as you lose feeling/ dexterity in your fingers.  Also, keep lighter in inside pocket next to your body, as this can make a big difference in getting flame in extreme cold.

He also adds:

I always keep a few feet of duct tape wrapped around my Bic lighters.  This means I (almost) always have duct w/ me.  Further, duct tape makes OK tinder.  Not great, but workable.  (Do you know the PJCB [ed: petroleum jelly cotton ball] in a milkshake straw trick?  I learned it from a guy who went by "curdog".  I know Ellifritz posted about this, but if it's new to you let me know and I'll explain more fully.)  Finally, w/ cold hands this makes the lighter easier to grasp. 

Finally, and something that I knew better and should have done:

    I carry a thermos w/ either hot chocolate or hot tea when I know I'm going to be out for a while.  Adding half a stick of butter to hot chocolate really bumps up the caloric value and tastes pretty damn good  on a cold day.

I haven't tried adding a stick of butter to hot chocolate. I think I'll dig out my large Thermos and give it a try for my next outing.

More Tips For Dressing For Winter

Fireplace at twilight

Last week I published a short post on the topic of "Dressing for Winter." A reader has shared some additional tips and tricks, writing:

    First, like you, I favor parka length garments.  I've had a few over the years that extended 3-4" farther down the thigh on the back, while I don't see it as a "must have", I liked this feature.  I do see pocket space as a BFD.  I like a couple of bellows pockets on the chest, pouch and slot pockets at the waist.  I try to carry a spare pair of gloves, a spare cap, and a scarf.  (There's a trick you may know, but as I learned it later in life, I'll mention it anyway.  If you fold a scarf in half, lengthwise, put it around neck and pull loose ends through folded end, it will cinch up very nicely and prevent heat leaking around neck via the chimney effect.) 

    I try to keep a few of the hand-warmers in my pockets.  I have sev'l "saves" on children who were on verge of hypothermia using these.  Kids go hypothermic pretty quickly and many parents are ill prepared (I bailed out one family two successive winters while XC skiing.) I'd carry them for this reason alone, but they've many uses.

    W/ rgd to your suggestion of keeping a light weight jacket to allow you to moderate/ adjust body temp, let me suggest a fleece vest for this purpose.  Especially one that reverses from Blaze Orange to a camo pattern.  The utility of such a garment is greater than many other garments, signaling, warming, hiding...  I also like to keep a reversible cap in my coat.

He also adds:

The little hand warmers have a number of uses.  One thing that works well is to melt water frozen in a Nalgene bottle.  They don't put out enough heat to melt the bottle, but if you duct tape a couple to a frozen Nalgene bottle they will pretty quickly provide you w/ drinkable water.  

 As I looked over my collection of jackets and coats, I noticed that I also had a few that were cut longer on the back than on the front: I assume this is to make it easier to sit while still covering the butt to protect from the cold. I also like more capacious pockets as I tend to stuff items in my pockets when not needed. I keep a Chapstick in my winter coats, as well as storing gloves in the pockets (I don't have a pair for every coat but I'm getting there)--that way I don't have to hunt for gloves when I grab the jacket or coat. I will also stuff keys in an outer pocket when bundled up. And if I'm really bundled up in my heaviest winter coat, a small revolver will go into an outside pocket since there is probably a snowball's chance in Hell that I could get to a weapon on my belt if I needed one.

Dressing for Winter

Alexander Ivanovich Surikov in a winter coat
(study by Vasily Surikov for the
painting "Taking a snow town", 1889)

I came across an article a few days ago on the subject of dressing for the winter called, appropriately enough, "How to Dress for Winter, According to Nordic Adventurers". Waking up to temperatures of 21 degrees Fahrenheit (-6.1 Celsius) this morning, I decided that it was close enough to winter to share the article and discuss the topic.

    The article raises 5 main points:

• First, use a layering system comprised of 3 layers: a base layer next to your skin that is comfortable (the article recommends Merino wool because even if it gets wet, it will retain its insulating properties), a more insulative second layer such as a thicker wool sweater or technical layer (like PrimaLoft), and a third top layer/outer shell with wind-breaking/wind-stopping qualities (the article recommends Gore-Tex). The article also mentions that "[t]o layer your legs for warmth, wool long underwear under a wind-breaking shell pant should suffice, though extreme conditions may call for a third layer."

    I'm no Arctic adventurer but I basically went over to this system many years ago even for just day-to-day dressing in the winter, largely abandoning the heavier coats that I'd previously used. I generally don't don a special base layer figuring my underwear (a t-shirt undergarment and bottoms that go nearly to my knees) and street cloths are enough considering the typical winter temperatures where I live. I will then wear a cardigan sweater or its fleece equivalent as a second layer (or a flannel or wool shirt if I'm feeling outdoorsy). And, when outside, I will generally put on a windbreaker of some sort. I've tried more water resistant jackets but I don't like how they trap the moisture. If the temperature drops closer to 0 F, I will exchange the windbreaker for a leather coat or wool coat and, if I'm going to be outside a lot, at least put on a base layer (long underwear) over my legs. And if it gets really cold, I have a thick down coat that I can use as the outer layer.

    Also, something I learned as a child when I lived in a much colder area of Idaho, is to avoid the short skiing or bomber type jackets as the outer layer. They are great if you have to sit a lot in the cold, but otherwise you want something that at least extends over your hips and down to the top of your thighs. 

    I've tried the muli-layer coats that you can detach the shell from the liner, but never really liked them. I prefer the ease of being able to remove or replace independent layers of clothing. 

• Second, the article cites another experienced traveler who recommends packing a thin down jacket to adjust your temperature in a hurry rather than wearing one heavy coat. Basically, something that you can put on when colder, but can take off and stuff into a bag or pack when you get warmer. I see this as really a recommendation as to a second layer or a type of outer layer when wind or precipitation is not an issue.
• Third, the article states, a good hat is a must. "'Think of your body as a chimney where heat rises, so you’ll want to cover it off effectively,' says Rølvåg, who recommends choosing a hat that wind won’t easily penetrate. (Tight-knit merino wool does the trick.)"

    While beanies or stocking caps are great for working in the yard or tromping about in the countryside, I prefer something a little more stylish when going to work or just going about town. My preference is a flat cap of some type with no brim in the back. My current and favorite hat of this type is the style known as a "poorboy" or "newsboy" (see, e.g., here and here for sellers). With no brim on the back, I don't have to worry about my car seat or head rest pushing against it (a problem I have with my Fedora) and many styles (including mine) have ear covers that you can unfold to cover your ears and the back of your neck if the weather calls for it. Also, again because of the absence of a brim, I can pull the hood on my windbreaker over the hat should it be raining or snowing. If it is really cold, I have a bomber cap. 

    I have also found that the the old truism--if your feet are cold, put on a hat--is generally true. A good hat lets you get away with lighter gloves and footwear. 

• Fourth, protect your other extremities. In other words, use gloves/mittens and insulated shoes and socks.

    Karin Strand, vice president of expeditions for Hurtigruten, who has traveled to Antarctica more than 100 times, says wool does the job for socks.

    “I wear mostly my own hand-knitted socks because I get them the way I want,” says Strand, who also recommends buying woolen insoles for your winter boots to keep the cold at bay.

    Folsland says to opt for winter shoes or boots that are a bit larger than your regular size (1.5 or even two sizes larger works as a rule of thumb).

    “That way you can adjust the number of socks you’re wearing underneath and, more importantly, there’s air around your feet,” she says. “They won’t get squished and your blood circulation can keep flowing.”

In his video, "Winter SHTF tips: Bug out bag tricks", Prepared Airman discusses the topic of cold feet and related that because he sweats a lot through his feet, he had problems with his feet being cold even when using insulated boots, which he solved by going with ventilated boots which allowed the moisture to be wicked away from his feet. Something to consider if you have that issue.

• Finally, the article reminds readers that good clothes are rarely inexpensive, so treat the clothes as an investment. If you don't mind used clothing, you can sometimes come across good quality clothes at thrift stores, perhaps luck into a quality hand-me-down from a relative or friend, or get surplus military clothing through various military surplus sources. The best quality surplus will generally be European if you can figure out their sizing systems and are small enough to fit into their clothing--British surplus clothing, in particular, seems to be sized for children or crack addicts.